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2013/2014
by: Tim Kelley
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Late April 2014:
Reed Lakes Crust Skiing |
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Mid April 2014:
A Primer On "Crust Skiing's Cousin" - Snowmobile Trail Lake Skiing |
Want some fun
spring skiing that ranks up there with crust skiing? Then
maybe you should try groomed snowmobile trail skiing on a big
lake. This is fast skiing that is actually more reliable
than crust skiing, because the base you are skiing on is firm
and doesn't break down as quickly with warm temperatures like
crust snow does.
A good place
to do this type of skiing is at Lake Louise and Susitna Lake
near Glennallen, Alaska. The Lake Louise Snowmobile Club
grooms over 30 miles of trails around the perimeters of these lakes. So,
there is a big "figure 8" that you can skate ski here.
Besides usually being buffed to perfection, these trails are
well marked and there are "you are here" map signs at all
intersections.
Lake Louise
is about 160 miles north of Anchorage on the Glenn Highway.
That's a long distance to drive for a one day ski. You
will probably have more fun if you stay the night up there.
There are quite a few lodges and cabin rentals in the area.
And the winter rates make the prices reasonable. You can
ski these lakes until late April / early May. Want to know
what the weather is like and what the trails look like up there?
Then check out the
Lake
Louise Lodge web cam.
People with
cabins on these lakes use the trails for snowmobile access on
the weekends. So it's best skiing here mid-week if you
can. But if you are here on a weekend, it is still good.
Everyone up there is friendly and you will get waved at a lot.
I always put some money in the "Trails Fund" donation boxes up
there, because the "Wolf Pack", the Lake Louise Snowmobile Club,
does a world class job of marking and grooming a remarkable
winter trail system. |
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The trails around
the lakes are marked in green on this trail map. |
Heading out.
Lots of good signage on these trails. It would be very
hard to get lost here. |
Fast girl on a fast
trail, effortless skating across Lake Louise. |
Sun + snow + speed =
fun. |
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The "LS 8" - Lake
Louise / Susitna Lake Figure 8. 32.9 miles of groomed lake
trails. If there was a late April/ early May race on this
course, people would be setting their 50 km PRs ... easily! |
Why does spring
skiing come so late on Lake Louise? Because it's a cold
place. Check out the image above from the Lake Louise
Lodge web cam. Minus 13 degrees on April 11th. I was
there this day in the afternoon. Good skiing on cold
powder at 23 degrees. But a long ways from spring
conditions. |
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12 April 2014:
Nelchina Glacier |
A popular
trip for snowmobilers in the Eureka area is to ride to the
Nelchina Glacier. And if you want - you can go all the way
to Valdez. Actually, a couple/few times a year - hardcore
snowmobilers will ride the 125 miles, mostly across large
glaciers, from Valdez to Eureka, have lunch at the lodge and then
head back to Valdez. 250 miles of hoping you don't drive
into a crevasse (I remember once this happening to a snowmobiler,
who is now paralyzed for life from his waist down).
My wife and I
did a quick snowmobile-supported trip to the glacier and back.
I skied to the glacier, my wife and I took turns skiing coming
back. From the Eureka Lodge you ski west along the Glenn
Highway to the Nelchina River Trail. You cross the highway
and then head south towards the mountains and then east down
into the river drainage. The trail is good until the part
that descends to the river, which is sno-go bump-nasty. On
the floodplain the trail was great for skate skiing all the way
to the glacier.
On this trip
I forgot my camera. So these
pictures were taken with my cell phone that takes crappy 1.3 MP
photos. Sorry. |
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After skiing at Lake
Louise on the 11th my wife and I stayed at
Slide Mountain
Cabins. Never had stayed here before. Nice
cabins. We liked their pavilion with open fireplace and
hanging chairs around it. |
There's basically
one turn on the trail to the Nelchina River. And it's
marked with this sign. |
Nearing the Nelchina
Glacier. Good skiing on old river channels and the glacial
outwash plain. |
It's about 18
miles from the Eureka Lodge to the Nelchina Glacier. |
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While getting pictures
off my cell phone from this ski trip, I noticed this shot from a few years ago.
I was once passed by
this jacked-up Pontiac Firebird as I was skiing out to Knik
Glacier. I later saw this beast parked by the side of the
road, and for sale, in Butte (Palmer). It's always an adventure when
you go for ski trips in the Butte area! |
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05 April 2014:
Moore Lake Trail |
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04 April 2014:
Lake Louise To Crosswind Lake And Back |
I have known
of Crosswind Lake and have wanted to ski there for a long time.
So I grabbed my skis, headed up to Lake Louise and skied
out the Crosswind Trail to the north end of Crosswind Lake.
This is a big, remote lake in some cold and somewhat bleak
country. Access to this lake is by plane in the summer,
winter trails during snow season. I skied across Crosswind
Lake, passing a bunch of cabins, to the Big Bay Trail.
Heading back west I took a south turn on the Big Rock Trail and
then intersected the Tolsona Trail to get back to Lake Louise.
This skiing
was mostly on snowmobile trails that were groomed by the Lake
Louise Snowmobile Club. "The Wolf Pack" does an incredible
job grooming a huge trail system in the Eureka-Lake Louise-Tolsona
area. My wife came along on a snowmobile for part of this
trip (that's why there are some pictures of me), before she went
back to ski the trails on Lake Louise. |
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GPS track: 50
miles. |
The Crosswind Trail
from Lake Louise to Crosswind Lake is predominately a long
seismic line cut, with a few good-sized hills. |
These trails are
used by the Copper Basin 300 dog sled race. |
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The trail across
Crosswind Lake. This is cold country. Best skiing
conditions here are in the spring. |
Leaving Crosswind
Lake and starting to head back to Lake Louise. |
I was surprised to
only see two snowmobiles on this ski trip. |
Going back, I took
the Big Rock Trail over to the Tolsona Trail. The big rock
is in the distance. |
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Not surprisingly,
these snowmobile trails were as good or better groomed, and
better marked, than any xc ski trails I've been on in Alaska. |
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29-30 March 2014:
Springtime Trail Cruising With My Wife |
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23 March 2014:
Syncline Mountain Loop |
I've now done
variations of the Eureka area Syncline Mountain loop four times.
Though
I try to mostly just post new ski trips on this web site, I'm posting this one because: 1) I've never posted
a Syncline Mountain trip on this web site
before, 2) I've never done this exact variation of this loop and
3) I haven't done a Syncline Mountain loop in 18 years.
And of course, another reason for posting this trip report is
because this is a unique network of winter trails through some
beautiful country that always delivers a memorable ski trip.
To do this
loop I started at Glenn Highway just past the old Tahneta Lodge
site. Here there is a road that goes NW to an area with a
lot of cabins. I skied this packed-snow road and then down
the Squaw Creek Trail. This is fun and fast skiing as you
gradually descend down to Caribou Creek.
Once on
Caribou Creek, I skied NW and through a gorge until I got to
Alfred Creek. Following Alfred Creek NE, I went through
another gorge and then skied up through a number of small gold
mining operations on the north side of Syncline Mountain.
Once above treeline, I found the Pass Creek Trail and started
the long climb up to Belanger Pass. From Belanger Pass it
was a steep and fast descent back to the road and out to the
Glenn Highway.
This loop, or
variations of it, are fun. But skiing here can be
challenging. You don't always know if a trail will be in
on the north side of Syncline Mountain. The trail I
followed this day was down to one snowmobile track for a while.
Sometimes the Caribou and Alfred Creek gorges can have open
water in them and you can't get through them (though you can
take a trail that bypasses them). Other challenges are
overflow, usually quite a lot, and navigation. And up high
it can be tricky finding the connecting trails.
If you are
new to skiing in this area of endless snowmobile trails, it's
best to start with shorter trips and learn the trails. And
then start putting bigger loops together. |
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GPS track: 32 miles |
Where the loop
starts and ends. |
Heading down the
Squaw Creek Trail, Gunsight Mountain in the distance. |
Squaw Creek Trail,
Fortress Ridge ahead. |
Cabin at Squaw Creek
and Caribou Creek. |
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A guy apparently
lives here. His math confused me a bit. |
Heading up Caribou
Creek. |
Approaching the
gorge of Caribou Creek. |
Exiting the Caribou
Creek gorge. |
Approaching the
Alfred Creek gorge. |
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In the Alfred Creek
gorge, looking back towards Caribou Creek. |
Looking back at the
Alfred Creek gorge. |
"Peew! What's
that smell!" No, this is not that bus. Miners
probably dragged it in by cat for use as storage/ shelter. |
A lot of gold mining
equipment in this remote valley. All of it was dragged in
here by bulldozers. |
Alfred Creek up
higher as the valley widens. Lots of caribou up here. |
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Overflow. |
On the climb up to
the pass. |
Igloo remains. |
Nearing the pass,
looking back. |
The final stretch to
the pass. |
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View from Belanger
Pass looking towards the Glenn Highway. |
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Sign on the road.
Kids play here too ... I ski here! |
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19 March 2014:
A New 70 Mile Loop In the Susitna Valley |
Last year
Cruz Construction blazed and cut an ice road route from
the Willow Creek state campground across the Big Su and on to
the Deshka and Yentna Rivers. The ice road was to be used
this year to transport a drilling rig out to an exploratory gas
drilling site. But with this year's warm and fickle
weather, the ice road was not established.
Even though
the ice road didn't come to fruition this year, the work from
2013 created a new snowmobile route to get to the Yentna River
from the Willow / Deshka Landing area.
I had been
chomping at the bit to ski this trail as part of a big loop.
But due to poor snow conditions and my schedule ... it
took until mid-March to finally pull it off. Well, it was
probably worth the wait as I was able to do this new loop during
perfect weather.
I started at
Deshka Landing and skied the Deshka Cross-over Trail to the
Deshka River. Skiing up the Deshka River I reached where
the ice road route crosses and headed west. The trail got
bumpy and at this point. And snowmobile tracks I was
following ended when the snowmobilers lost their way and turned
back 5 miles from the Yentna River. I knew the correct trail, so
I kept going on an old trailbed that was starting to drift over.
Once I reached the Yentna, it was high-speed autobahn travel
down to Scary Tree and then up the Big Susitna back to Deshka
Landing.
This was a
day ski, but I pulled a small sled with overnight gear (sleeping
bag, bivy tent). Why bring overnight gear? This new
trail sees minimal traffic compared to the river trails.
It's remote. I'm alone. And sh*t can happen (break
ski, break binding, break ski boot, moose stomping, ice gives
way, etc.). Small sleds create very little
resistance when skate skiing on fast river trails. So it's
best to prepared and bring extra stuff in case you need it.
One fun way
for people to do this ski, if they didn't want to grind it out
in a day, would be to overnight at the
Grabryszak's Yentna
Station Roadhouse. This lodge is very near the half-way point
of this loop and would make a great place to break up the trip.
But make sure you have a GPS track of the ice road route before
you go. |
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GPS track: ~70 miles |
Heading north on the
Deshka Cross-over Trail. What a day! |
Recently hauled-in
fish weir segments
on the Deshka River (for a salmon counting station). |
Fast skiing up the
Deshka River. |
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At the ice road
route crossing of the Deshka River. Easy to miss. |
~1.5 miles from the
Deshka there is a junction. Go west, north goes to a
drilling pad. |
The ice road route goes
through nice woodlands and some swamps. |
A trapline was
established along this route. Don't stick your hand in the
box! |
Snowbikers beware
... the swamps were soft going. |
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Past where the
recent snowmobilers had turned around, the trail was starting to
drift in. |
Heading south on the
Yentna River, Mount Susitna in the distance. |
Yentna Station
Roadhouse
at Mile 14. |
The former Luce's
Lodge, now out of business (though I did see Dave Luce on a
snowmobile pulling a trail drag) |
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Yentna River mile
marker. |
A freight hauler
heading up the Yentna River. |
Scary Tree! |
Me patting a ghost
on Scary Tree. It's good to befriend ghosts you meet on
the trail! |
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Heading up the Big
Su. I've boated by this point many times. |
Kroto Slough - I
would guess this guy is hauling over $2000 worth of diesel or
gas. |
Long shadows, just
before Deshka Landing. |
The Deshka Landing
boat launch. End of a super-fun ski loop! |
GPS Track, satellite
view |
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A common evening
sight in the Su Valley - a low flying Air National Guard C-130
out training. |
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Early March 2014:
My Favorite Su Valley Classic SkiingTrail |
I had not
skied my favorite Su Valley classic skiing trail in quite a few
years. So I headed to Houston to ski the Herning Trail (a.k.a
the Willow Creek Sled Trail). This trail was laid out
almost a century ago so dog teams could haul freight to mines on
the west side of Hatcher Pass. Because of the big loads
that had to be transported up a lot of elevation, the trail
ascends gradually. This trail has a nice uphill flow for
15 miles, then you turn around and make the trip back to Houston
a lot faster. It's a narrow, (mostly) easy to ski and fun
trail. Cold powder conditions are best for this trail, as
it makes for great old-school classic skiing. The day I
did the trail I didn't say anyone, so it can be a very quiet
trail too.
I started and
ended this ski at my usual spot - the Houston Fire Department.
But I noticed there was more development near the start of the
trail here and less traffic indicated on the trail than I
remembered. Later I would find out that a new trailhead
for the Herning Trail was built by the Matanuska-Susitna Borough
off the Zero Lake Road. This road is the first right as
you pass Houston going north on the Parks Highway. So if
you want to ski the Herning Trail, you might want to start from
the new parking lot and work you way east until you hit the
Herning Trail. |
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About 30 miles out
and back. |
This is musher
country. |
Sign at mid-point of
the trail. |
Upper end of the
trail has a Steese-White Mountains feel to it. |
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Early March 2014:
Skiing Susitna Valley Groomed Freight Hauling Trails |
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A recent groomed
freight hauling trail on Alexander Creek (near the base of Mount
Susitna).
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Freight
hauling by snowmobile is done a lot in the late winter in
Alaska. Hauling materials and supplies to remote
properties by snowmobile is often cheaper than using a plane
or boat. Plus, snowmobiles can get materials exactly to
where you need them, whereas planes and boats can usually just
get supplies to a lake shore or river bank.
Late February
to early April sees a spike in snowmobile freight hauling in the
Susitna Valley. From trailheads, endless trips are made to
remote properties off the grid. People haul building
supplies, fuel, construction equipment, diesel generators, septic tanks, boats, giant 8-foot diameter
tires, sofas, pigs, lamas ... just about anything and
everything. Sometimes you will see huge cabin or retirement
home building packages delivered to a snowmobile trailhead. And then
people race against time and snow conditions to get these
materials to where it has to go.
Like crust
skiing, snowmobile freight hauling of big loads is not something
you can do any time you want. You have to wait until the
conditions are right. If you try to haul big loads when
the snow is too soft, you will get stuck. If the snow is
too wet, the suction will work against you. If the snow
surface is too icy, it's rough on your snowmobile's cooling
system and track. If the trail is too bumpy, you can break
your sled or spill your cargo. If ice is too thin, you can
loose everything.
When it comes
to snowmobile freight hauling - it's a numbers game. The
equipment used to haul is expensive and easy to damage.
And fuel is expensive. So you have to figure the best time
to haul and the best size loads to carry for the conditions.
You can haul
yourself, which I do because I like the challenge, or you can
call the pros. Pros like Mike Mason sometimes go out and
groom freight hauling trails before he hauls. That way
there is less excitement and less wear and tear on his
equipment. And they can haul more in less time.
Not only does
grooming help snowmobile freight hauling, it also helps skiers
that happen upon their trails. You can get some long skis
in on freshly groomed trails in places were trails have never
been groomed before. It's a nice treat. How do you
find these trails? Go to snowmobile parking lots, look for
big piles of building materials and ask the guys loading the
freight sleds: "So where are you taking this stuff?!"
On a side
note: I get good-natured ribbing from a freight hauler about
"ruining" groomed hauling trails. Apparently to him, the
skate ski marks I make are dangerous ruts that deface his finely
buffed-out hauling trails. That's so funny! Usually,
everywhere else in the world, snowmobilers are the bad guys for
wrecking ski trails. But in a certain corner of Alaska,
skiers are the bad guys for messing up snowmobile trails!
Ha! |
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Here are a few
recent shots of pros hauling a tractor and accessories 30 miles
off the road system. If you need a pro to haul freight in
the Sustina Valley, contact the guy doing this haul job - Mike
Mason (you can find him on Facebook). Photo credits: Mike
Mason. |
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Here is a
video I
made 5 years ago about snowmobile freight hauling. This
was a 1200 pound load. That's pretty big for me. Not
big for the pros. |
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02 March 2014:
Placer River Valley Winter Crust |
The second
melt-down of our wimpy winter left us with a bit of crust
skiing. It's not the greatest crust skiing. It's
pretty ratty due to frozen snowmobile tracks and, by no
surprise, very low snow depth. Looking up the Placer
Valley now you see a lot of brown, when you usually just see
white. This is because many willows and alders are still
showing, when usually they are mashed down by heavy snow.
And where you used to ski over this vegetation, now you need to
find a way through or around it.
There is a
trail up the west side of the Placer River that the Glacier City
Snowmobile Tours is using. This trail is decent for
skiing, but there are two shallow, open-water crossings of the
river on this trail. I got this information from talking
to one of the snowmobile tour guides, who was really nice.
So, to make it to the Spencer Glacier you have to stay to the
east of the train tracks. Lots of snowmobiles have been
riding right next to the tracks. This makes for a good trail,
though the Alaska Railroad doesn't want people traveling next to
the tracks. So be careful.
A bunch of
other crust skiers were out this day. I got word that the
trail to the Skookum Glacier is in rough shape. I saw a
motorcyclist and two road bikers on the Seward Highway while
driving back. And I also saw a guy in a wheelchair and a
girl running in shorts on the snow-less Bird to Gird bike trail.
I had never seen those sights before at the beginning of March
in Alaska. What a weird winter. |
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Lots of "brown" in
the valley this year. |
Following the
snowmobile tour tracks to the Spencer Glacier. Crust
skiing off the trail was good here too. |
Nice, illegal
snowmobile trail next to the train tracks. |
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Near the middle of
the glacier terminus, there is a long "ice cliff" this year.
A channel runs the length of the ice cliff where wave action
during higher summer water levels eroded into the ice.
Every year there are new and unique ice formations to be seen
here. |
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The new pedestrian
bridge over the Placer River is now finished. |
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What?! Beavers
have started making igloos?!?! |
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